01. Cutting the first panels for the speaker cabinet |
02. Cutting the panels for the speaker cabinet |
03. Cutting the panels for the speaker cabinet |
04. The specification for the 1 x 12" cabinet |
05. First joint |
06. About to put on the lower back panel |
07. Lower back panel in place |
08. Second side panel being glued and pinned |
09. Strips to support the baffle added |
10. Final adjustments to the internal bracing |
11. Putting the curved edges on the cabinet. First, the back bottom edge |
12. Then rounding the top side |
13. Getting the corners rounded off |
14. Sanding the edges and corners |
15. The baffle has been routed across to take the gold t-piece. Now, the centre for the speaker cutout is being located |
16. Checking the speaker location and marking out the holes for the bolts |
17. Routing out the speaker cutout |
18. Cutting recesses for the t-nuts so that the bolts don't touch the grille cloth |
19. That's all the woodwork done on the baffle |
20. Fixing the small pieces of wood that will give the front aperture rounded internal corners - which will make the baffle, with its surrounding tadpole, fit well |
21. Cleaning off surplus glue |
22. The rounded internal corners |
23. Routing for the stringing |
24. More routing for the stringing |
25. Spraying the inside of the cabinet matt back |
26. More spraying |
27. Cutting out the covering. This is for the lower back panel |
28. Finishing a corner on the lower back panel |
29. Starting to cover the speaker cabinet |
30. This will be the join on the base of the cabinet, but it will be just as good as if it was in open view |
31. Completing the covering of the four sides |
32. Last join before doing the edges and corners |
33. Great care taken to make the corners smooth, with joins that are very hard to see |
34. The feathering being done prior to sticking down the corners |
35. Nice clean corner |
36. The hot air gun is used to make the covering more flexible and to drive out surplus moisture, to ensure a good fit and a nice clear edge line |
37. The top back panel is covered, and screws can be put in place ready for assembly |
38. The top part of the baffle receives matching covering |
39. Now the grille cloth is held in place by a gold t-piece tapped into the routed line |
40. Securing the bottom edge of the grille cloth |
41. Starting to pin on the tadpole round the baffle |
42. Pushing the gold stringing into the two routed lines |
43. Now we're on to the amp - sanding the corners and edges and putting in the routing for the stringing |
44. Here's what a C7 looks like underneath |
45. Loose assembled speaker cabinet, with covering of the amp shell going on |
46. The feet go on the cabinet |
47. A front board has been made that will give a "mirror image" of the cabinet beneath |
48. Not long to go now... |
49. A C7 needs to be made to go in the shell - and it will have a lower profile than this demo one on the right |
50. Jeff wires up the Celestion Alnico Blue |
51. Jack plate connected up and in place |
52. Rear of the cabinet |
53. Getting ready to fix the badge on the speaker cabinet |
54. Getting the badge straight |
55. Ladies and Gentlemen, I give you ... |
56. ... the totally unique ... |
57. ... Matamp C7 (in pinky red covering with brown grille cloth) |
58. Now isn't that beautiful? |
59. Close up of the two badges |
60. Close up of the speaker cabinet |
61. Close up of the amp |
62. Jeff adds the "#000001" serial number |
63. All complete |
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